Beekeeping and What You Need to Get Started

Beekeeping and What You Need to Get Started

We’re in my backyard, and today I’m going to show you just how easy it is to harvest honey using our Flow Hive.

Here’s the things you’ll need, a jar, a tube to get the honey into the jar, and a Flow key to turn to harvest the honey.

If you’re new to beekeeping, it’s a good idea to wear a bee veil or a bee suit until you’re really comfortable and confident around your beehive.

Okay, so let’s have a look and see how much honey is in the Flow Frames.

Oh, look at that, isn’t that gorgeous?

Here we have a completely full Flow frame.

You can see when it’s ready, by the way, they’ve put the wax capping on each side.

Next to it, we’ve got one that’s filling.

You can see them actually depositing the honey in the cells.

If you look closely, you might even see their tongues depositing honey.

I’ve harvested these two frames a couple of weeks ago, so you can see these ones are empty.

Here, you can see a few cells that are still empty.

Because this is edge frame, we can take a look at it through the side window.

Look at that, the girls have kept all the cells beautifully.

It’s good to wait until the frame is all kept, or at least mostly kept, before harvest, so you know the honey is ready and will keep without fermenting.

Before you harvest, make sure the hive has a 2.5 degree or more slight backwards, so the honey drains out of the frames.

If you have a complete Flow Hive, the slope is already built into the bottom board.

There are two positions for this core flute slider.

It’s important before you harvest to put it into the top position, so if any honey spills, the bees can lick it back up from within the hive.

I’m just gonna remove the tool access cover, then take out the upper cap.

Sometimes you need pliers to do that, especially when they’re new from the factory.

I’ll remove the lower cap, and there’s a tag on the end of the Flow tube, and that goes into the honey leak back point, so the Flow logo is on top of the tube.

One jar under the tube, and the Flow key goes in the lower slot.

Wow. You can see the honey pouring down.

Get a look at that.

It is absolutely pouring inside that tube here.

Isn’t that gorgeous?

Beautiful fresh honey straight from the hive.

The left hand side is draining away.

The right hand side’s hot on its tail.

Just remember, this is just the honey harvesting process.

You still need to look after your bees just as you would with any beehive.

The quickest I’ve had a jar filled is in seven minutes, and the longest would be three, four hours.

It can be quite hard to turn the handle and open the whole frame at once.

So, to make it easier, you can simply open part of the frame at a time.

What we’re going to do is open the frame in section.

I’ve just put the tool in a quarter, then I’m gonna turn that.

Then another quarter, turn it again.

Another quarter, then all the way.

So you notice this honey is flowing quite quickly.

The bees keep the hive at about 35 degrees, which means the honey comes out quite warm.

You can feel the jar, and feel that the honey is actually is a little bit warm.

So you can see the bees are hardly disturbed on the comb surface.

The wax capping that they’re standing on hasn’t changed, except for the honey is drained out from beneath their feet, out the tube, and into the jar, and the bees are coming and going at the front of the hive just as they normally would.

Sometimes the honey can take 15 minutes to come out like this jar, or sometimes it can take three hours, and it just depends on how
thick the honey actually is.

It’s spring time here, and there’s plenty of nectar coming in.

As you can see, the bees haven’t come around to rob the honey.

But if it was the time where the bees are a bit hungry and you were harvesting, you would need to cover your jar.

You can do that quite simply.

We’re using a piece of netting like this and a rubber band, or you can bend a piece of tube into a jar, or you can use a plastic container like this, just by making a little cut and a little hole, or some kitchen cling wrap just to wrap around the jar like this.

Make sure you save it for next time, because I hate wasting plastic.

This jar is just about to overflow, so it’s more than than three kilograms of honey now that’s come out of that one frame.

We just had to do a quick jar swap, because this jar was just about to overflow.

Isn’t that amazing?

That’s over three kilograms in that jar, and it’s still flowing out of one Flow frame.

To finish off, we need to reset the combs into their original position.

To do that, you need to get your tool and insert it into the upper slot.

If you look at the top of your Flow frame, the tool goes in the upper slot, push it all the way in.

Then you simply just turn that, and now that comb is reset for the bees to fix it all up and start filling with honey again.

The upper cap will fit in there.

If I haven’t reset the comb like this frame here, the cap actually won’t fit in.

It’s a little fail safe to remind you to reset the comb into the correct position for the bees to use it again and fill it up with honey.

The honey hasn’t quite finished, but what we’re gonna do is close this off and let the rest go back to the bees.

I’ll pull this out, and I’ll put the cap in.

Now the last bits will drain through that honey leak back system back into the hive for the bees to reuse.

That make sure that the trough is clean for next time.

Beekeeping for Beginners

Beekeeping for Beginners

I develop naturally for a solid and saf food flexibly, for a spotless and economical condition, for a charming and remunerating experience.

Increment the yields from your organic product trees furthermore, your vegetable nursery furthermore, receive the sweet benefit of nectar by setting up a bee sanctuary in your ownlawn.

Today we’re going to audit what gear you need also, how to arrangement your hive.

First we have to choose a dry level area that we can get to all year. In a perfect world you’ll confront the hive entrance towards the southern introduction.

The honey bees will fly straight out of the entrance so ensure it’s not confronting legitimately into a walkway, the neighbor’s yard, or on the other hand your own family or pets play region.

You can set up your hive to confront a support or fence and the honey bees will rapidly figure out how to fly over-top the obstruction keeping them off of your mind, truly.

Know about any irritations in your neighborhood and plan likewise. For model, on the off chance that you have bears in the zone introduce an electrified barrier preemptively to keep them from experiencing the nectar since once they get one taste they may simply charge through an electrified barrier in what’s to come.

On the off chance that you have skunks in the territory manufacture a represent your hive to sit on that is in any event eighteen inches tall.

What happens is the skunks around evening time will exasperate up the honey bees, at that point hang tight for them to fly out of the hive and eat them like sweets.

You can set up your hive either legitimately on the ground or on the other hand on a level surface like this bed.

This redwood hive stand will oppose decay.

This is a strong base board it makes a difference keep the base of the hive secure.

There additionally screened base sheets that can help with checking pasts, for example, bugs.

This passageway reducer fits cozily into the base board and is valuable while the state sets up itself furthermore, does the stunt for keeping mice out of the hive.

When you see an expanding measure of honey bee traffic you can turn the passage reducer to the bigger passage or expel everything together.

Contingent upon the climate and the accessibility of dust when you get your new honey bees you might need to introduce a feeder.

This will urge the new state to draw brush rapidly so the sovereign can lay eggs and the laborers can store dust.

In the event that you need to utilize the passageway reducer also, the feeder simultaneously your going to need to slice your passage reducer to measure.

The passage feeder is extraordinary on the grounds that you can include the sugar syrup without opening the hive.

The sugar syrup is only a mix of balanced proportion of natural sugar and heated water, let it cool before taking care of the honey bees.

Next up are the two brood chambers, these nine and five eighths inch boxes are going to be the center of your honey bees home.

Inside these two boxes the sovereign will lay eggs which will transform into hatchlings, pupae and youthful honey bees which are all alluded as brood, henceforth the name, brood chambers, or on the other hand brood box.

These two brood boxes are the place the honey bees will store their food to endure the winter.

A beekeeper will examine the chambers to be sure that they’re sound be that as it may, you would prefer not to take the nectar from these base two chambers in the event that you need your honey bees to endure the winter.

When the honey bees have topped off these cases to around eighty five percent with brood also, nectar and that will take around six to a year then you can include an expansion.

So as to keep the sovereign in the brood chambers lay a sovereign excluder on top of the brood chambers.

The sovereign is a lot bigger than the working drones in this way she can’t fit through these slender holes yet the laborers can.

Presently for the sweet part, these are the nectar supers and these are six and five eighths inch pine boxes that you’re going to add to the top of your chambers.

Include each of these increments in turn to your colony.

When your super is around 50% brimming with nectar you can include another.

You’ll see that i’m setting up an eight outline hive today. This implies there’s eight of these wooden edges that the honey bees will draw their honeycomb onto in each case.

Business apiaries will for the most part utilize a ten casing super be that as it may, those can be exceptionally substantial up to about sixty pounds and for the home beekeeper you need it somewhat more sensible when you take your very inside the house to collect the nectar.

The inward spread is determined to head of the last super it has an opening for ventilation and gives protection from outrageous warmth and cold.

Also, finally the spread which will give security from downpour and day off in this case it will add an enlivening component to the nursery.

Alternatively you can protect your hive with straps or lashes.

This pine hive is delightful and on the off chance that you need it to hold its capacity and appearance it’s essential to paint it before the honey bees show up.

I’m going to paint mine with this normal non-poisonous poly whey clear stain, be that as it may, you can utilize latex outwardly.

I’m beginning with two hives also, to make painting simpler I’ve stacked all the containers.

Probably the best tip for novices is to start with two apiaries as i’m doing today so you can thoroughly analyze them after some time helping you to better comprehend what typical resembles. Since honey bees can separate between hues have a great time and paint your hives various hues in the event that you wish, what’s more, you’ll help your new honey bees better find their way home.

Since everything is dry my hives are prepared for the honey bees.

I’m utilizing the redwood base, the strong base board, the passageway reducer, two brood boxes, the internal spread,

what’s more, the rooftop. I’m going to store the two supers and the sovereign excluder until I need them.

So be a beekeeper and develop natural for life!

Classification of Varieties of Honey

Classification of Varieties of Honey

Honey is distinguished:

  • by origin
  • by the way of getting
  • by consistency (density)
  • by color
  • to taste and smell

By origin, honey can be natural (floral) and honeydew.

Natural, flower honey is produced by bees in the process of collecting and processing the nectar secreted by plant nectaries, both flowering and extra flowering.

Bees produce honeydew honey by collecting honeydew and honeydew from the leaves or stems of plants.

If bees have collected nectar from different plants, then such honey is usually called mixed, or floral.

If honey is obtained from one specific type of plant, then usually it is given the name of the plant from which it was collected. Beekeepers often call honey from the land from which it was collected by bees: meadow, field, steppe, forest, mountain, flooded, taiga. Honey is often called according to the geographical area associated with its origin.

In our country, for example, are known:

Bashkir and Far Eastern lime honey;

  • Siberian
  • Hawthorn honey
  • Heather honey
  • Cornflower honey
  • Pea
  • Mustard
  • Angelica
  • Snakehead
  • Cranberry
  • Willow
  • Cypress
  • Cypress
  • Maple
  • Burdock
  • Alfalfa
  • Melissa
  • May
  • Carrot
  • Mint
  • Camel thorn honey
  • Dandelion honey
  • Cucumber
  • Osotovy
  • Honeydew
  • Sunflower
  • Motherwort
  • Resedovy
  • Rapeseed honey
  • Rowan
  • Rough
  • Serpukhovy
  • Bruised honey
  • Saussureiny
  • Tobacco
  • Pumpkin
  • Phacelia honey
  • Cotton plant
  • Thyme honey
  • Bilberry
  • Sage
  • Esparcet
  • Apple honey and many other varieties.

According to the method of extraction, honey is divided into centrifugal and honeycomb.

Centrifugal honey is obtained by pumping it out of the honeycomb cells using a honey extractor.

Honeycomb is the name given to honey supplied to the consumer in natural form together with the honeycomb. The trade in comb honey is not widespread in our country, mainly because when consuming comb honey, both the comb and the wax spent on their construction are irrevocably destroyed and destroyed.

In terms of consistency, honey can be liquid or shrunken, i.e. crystallized.

Liquid honey has varying degrees of consistency (viscosity). The viscosity of honey depends on more or less water content in it and partly on the ambient temperature.

In settled honey, depending on the size of the crystals, coarse-grained, fine-grained and salo-like cages are distinguished.

In coarse-grained honey, conglomerates of sugar crystals are more than 0.5 mm in diameter, in fine-grained honey – less than 0.5 mm, but are still distinguishable with the naked eye. Sometimes candied honey has such small crystals that the mass of honey seems to be homogeneous, fat-like.

By color, honey is divided into white, light amber (light yellow) and dark yellow.

White honey in a liquid state is transparent, like water (for example, fireweed honey). Light amber, creamy honey is the most common. Dark yellow varieties of honey are divided into amber and dark (buckwheat, heather).

Taste and smell.

Natural honey tends to taste sweet. A sharp sour taste is inherent only in spoiled, fermented honey.

The aroma (smell) of honey is determined by the characteristics of a particular plant. The honey collected by bees from one particular plant usually has its own characteristic taste and aroma. Unmistakably, for example, buckwheat honey can be identified. Linden honey, honeycomb honey, collected from sunflower flowers, etc. has a peculiar aroma. Mixed honey also has a peculiar aroma. However, the aroma of such honey is extremely varied and it is often impossible to determine its origin.